It's Bohemian

I spent some time off from writing about my travel experiences, mostly wrestling with myself as I tried to find my place in Vietnam. Leaving America two months ago was easy - I had a lot of time to prepare, and knew what to expect, for the most part - white, sandy beaches and clear, deep blue waters, pleanty of sun, and smiles. Sure, I didn't get this initially when I arrived in Bangkok, but I had just left so much, embarking on a new adventure, and everything seemed wonderful in that context. After spending nearly a month on the beach, going back to a city was received by all my senses as unwelcome. I refused to continue being a tourist, but I forced to admit that I was, confronted by offers for tours at every turn, or to buy a souvenier as I tried to stroll the streets in peace. I was not allowed to feel at home, and I didn't like the reality of it - that this was not my home, and that there was good reason for no one to want me to ever claim it as such.

As I sat at a Cafe, drinking Ca Phe Sua Da (coffee with milk and ice) I began to accept that I would always be a tourist in Vietnam. As I allowed it to sink in, I also realized (spend a month on the beach and some realizations seem to take a while to hit you) that there was a reason I did not feel as relaxed...I was in a city! What city is not aggressive? What city is not a machine of parts each struggling to not be the first to break? What city is not filled with people who have piled in for the purpose of making a living, and are all in a race to make a living from the limited resources that exist within it, the greatest resource being us...being me...the tourist.

I settled down, stopped being harsh on myself for not being able to find my place in Vietnam, and stopped being harsh on the country for not allowing me the place I desired. I drank my Vietnamese coffee - strong black coffee that many drink with condensed mile and ice - a wonderful jolt of caffeine that people drink twice a day - a drink I found myself drinking two or three times before noon. I allowed myself to watch the machine that was Hanoi, and I began to see it's beauty.

Saigon - a city of 10 million people. If you go there, spend one day touring the city, but then get out of there on one of the super cheap tours and go see the tunnels from the Vietnam War (the one with America). Go further south and see the Makong Delta as well. This is the beauty of southern Vietnam.

Mui Ne - when you get there, just start taking kite surfing lessons. You're missing out if you don't, and not at the right beach if you intend to do anything different.

Delat - jump on the back of a motorbike with the easy riders for $20 for the day and take the tour to the silk factory, the Elephant Waterfall, Happy Buddha, and the countryside. If you're there for several days, and trust your ability to ride, get a motorbike of your own and just ride.

If you have the money, I recommend having th Easy Riders take you to Nha Trang, and to take as many days as you can afford. I regret not being able to say "you won't regret it" from first hand experience.

Hoi An - get some clothes made at Hugo - don't waste your time elsewhere. We saw clothes from a few other places, and they aren't bad, but the tailor at Hugo is wonderful. And if you want a nice and cheap place to stay, go to Bong Khanh which is directly across the street. Rent a motorbike to get to Marble Mountain, and give yourself about three hours before it gets dark. Once it's dark, it's too dark to enjoy or see anything. And take a small (a few snacks) picnic. The beach at Hoi An was wonderful, and you could get to it on bikes.

Hue is not a bad city, but the Citadel is not that impressive. It's being renovated, so it might be good in a year. The beauty is in getting out of the city and seeing the tombs. We got a motorbike and went out wondering with no idea where we were or what we were going to do, and stumbled upon one accidentally. It's amazingly beautiful.

Hanoi - enjoy the coffee, go to a movie, eat a lot of pho and if you can, some pigeon, and allow yourself to witness Vietnam.

I know this sounded more like a tour book than anything, but like I said, in Vietnam, you're a tourist, and with good reason. Don't try to be anything else, and you'll enjoy it more. You can be a tourist and get a lot out of it, so long as you don't spend your time fighting the desire to fit in.

Vietnam is a beautiful country - harsh in many ways - in need of time to find it's own way - but wonderful in it's own way.